Episode Summary 
DTown TV is a weekly show brought to you by Scott Kelby and Matt Kloskowski with KelbyTraining.com.
Episode Summary
In this week's episode, Scott and Matt discuss:
- Camera not beeping when you focus? Scott tells you why
- Matt shares tips on shooting and processing panoramas or HDR images
- Scott Diussa talks about setting your Flash Shutter Speed to make more evenly exposed images when using flash
- Come see Scott, Matt, and many other great instructors at Photoshop World in Las Vegas!
- Scott shows the difference between the Rotate Tall in the Playback menu and Auto Image Rotation in the Setup Menu
- Matt explains the AF-A, AF-S, and AF-C autofocus modes
- Don't forget to check out Scott's blog!
Okay, so you don’t want to change your shirts. Why not change the table so we can see the products?
Re Stacking photos for Panos & HDR
In Bridge there is a selection to automatically stack photos into groups for panos or HDR. Just open the folder & let bridge find all of them for you & put them into tidy stacks
derek
Another good show. Interesting to note that the focus area selector can be moved accidentally too. I spent half a day wondering why my focus point indicator wasn’t behaving as expected.
Maybe I spend too much time on Photoshop disasters, but I’m trying to figure out how Matt’s hand ended up oriented as a left hand and a right hand unless the image was just flipped to form the second visual marker
NOTE: This is meant for Otis below
If you can’t see the products then get some glasses. I have had no problem viewing the products in any of the videos so far. We are talking about camera bodies and lenses so presumably the viewers will already know what these things look like. How much more detail could one need? I also couldn’t care less what type of T-shirts Scott and Matt wear, how they spell some of the words or any other total and absolute trivia that I have seen mentioned in the feedback so far. My thanks to them both and the rest of the production team for putting together a very useful and informative series of articles. I have managed to get at least something useful from most of them.
This comment is really for the annoying folks who have commented in the past about shirt colors, knocking table sounds, Matt’s third cousin Lucy, words misspelled, facial expressions, nose hairs, butt cracks showing, Scott’s breakfast choice, non-Nikon equipment, and anything else totally unrelated. The show, otherwise known as the weekly show for NIKON DSLR users is FREE and full of good information so if you don’t like it then don’t watch it. Maybe if you spend more time focusing on the actual tips and tricks instead of the wall color you might learn something which, forgive me if I am wrong, is the point of the show.
Tracy! this is because of you girl!
Love ya Scott but here’s a two word question.
Bowling shirt? Another great show… keep up the great work.
tailwinds~
Scott, I’m going to bring you an aloha shirt, (yes a black one) when I come back from the Samoan shoot in Hawaii.
It’s interesting that all the panorama shots were done vertically, though Matt didn’t mention about this technique. The hand in and out picture idea is simple but very cool.
The Nikon guy’s tip on changing flash shutter sync time is also very interesting. I wish that we can actually see a real test and some photos samples to demonstrate the difference.
With what Scott was saying about the auto focus beep, it happens with the D90 as well. I was out shooting some night stuff, and I had to change to AF-C. The next day I forgot that I left it on AF-C, so there was no beep and I was freaking out thinking something is wrong. I soon remembered that I left the camera in AF-C, and as soon as I changed it back to AF-A it started beeping again.
Thank you so much, Matt, Scott, Moose and the entire team of coworkers for giving us these weekly videos, as well as for everything else you do for educating better photographers. I eagerly look forward to each episode, and particularly appreciate every tip that can help me choose between the various autofocus modes and how to get the perfectly sharp image. It would be interesting to know what you recommend as default settings particularly for autofocus mode and AF-Area mode.
Scott,
/Lighthearted
Can you try and not hit the shelf when you’re talking? Since I started noticing you do it it’s become very distracting. Or maybe something soft on the shelf to absorb the impact?
Anyway, thanks for the videos. I look forward to them every week.
Hi Guys,
always good shows from you. Special thanks to Scott Diussa. I didn’t know the word ,,blurry” before. But he used his hands, to explain and it was no problem. So I learn always two ways. Tricks on the techniqual stuff, and language. Thanks a lot.
I always have my Autofocus only activated by the AF-button (and not the shutter-button) at the back of the camera. Because than I can let the D300 at AF-C. If people cross the frame, I just let the button. Then you’re allowed to take a focus point, which has nothing to do with the exposure. So in fact creative possibilities on an easy way.
)
(I hope you understood what I mean
Looking forward for tomorrow; World Wide Photo Walk in Stuttgart / Germany
Hi Guys,
another great show. I look forward to seeing the interesting and thoughtful information that you share each week.
I know that you have started to see this, but, I think, it is time to put together an index so that people can lookup the information from previous shows.
Here is may challenge to you. Add a link to the index so that you can jump to the show and section that the index is referring to. If that isn’t possible just adding the time and show number will make it easier to find.
On a different note, please see if you can submit your advertisement for “Moose Peterson’s Big Game Seminars” for an advertising award. After more than four months of that commercial I still laugh every time I see it. Of course now I laugh when I see Moose. I used to laugh when I saw the bison.
I wish you all continuing success.
Thank you for sharing,
Clive
Another great show, thank you for doing the show. I am also looking forward to Scott Kelby’s 2nd Annual Photowalk coming up July 18th, 2009.
http://shardayyy.wordpress.com/my-gear/ – My Gear
Great show!
If I can make a suggestion: pleas do a sneak peek about next show at the end of the current one, like: “on the next show we will talk about this or that”.
Thanks
Another awesome episode guys. I really liked the idea of shooting your hand as a marker because I have been bracketing a lot lately so that should help. It was also funny with matts tutorial in bridge when he was stacking the pano. The beginning hand and the ending hand is the same hand just flipped and cropped unless matt switches shooting hands ha-ha.
I was wondering if you could possibly go over the 3D tracking with cameras like the D3 and D700.
hi guys i watch dtown every week since i own a nikon d300 and i’ve picked up a lot of tips that heve been really helpfool. i would like to get some information on how to get sharp pictures. i know a lot of it depends on the equipment but i also know that should get more sharp pictures with my camera. sometimes i do and sometimes i don’t. thanks and keep up the good work and the shows coming. i look forward to them every week.
manny
I have to agree with the comments above; the shows are awesome. I have learned so much about my camera (D200) from watching your shows. Although you don’t mention the D200 that often and it is not in the credits at the beginning.
I get really tickled by all the comments about the t-shirts, and the banging on the table…C’mon, Matt and Scott don’t dress any differently than any photographer I’ve ever met. I”ve seen wedding photographers show up in T-shirts! And black shirts make it much easier to see the details on the CAMERAS on some monitors. As for the banging on tables…I didn’t notice it until the complaints started surfacing. I guess I was too busy focussing on the content. No matter, t-shirts forever, the blacker the better, keep banging on the table, and keep the shows coming. My request would be to show more photography techniques. And when you show a tip, with a screenshot of a camera menu, put up models that this tip may apply to. I shoot a D700, a D300, and still shoot my D70…because I can. Tips identified across applicable models would be a nice help. Thank you, gentlemen. Keep the flame.
Love the show, I can’t wait for it evey week! I am a long time Nikon user and still learn something new every show! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
I’m confused on when to use rear curtain sync vs adjusting flash shutter speed when trying to capture more background ambient light. Also what happens when you use both at the same time?
Props to a fine program and to Nikon. Now can we get over the attire issue and banging on the table complaints and stay focused on the content of each program.
DX vs FX Question.
You lads have covered the technical differences between the two sensor types in some depth, but what about the image quality? I notice your gear list has FX & DX formats, so under what circumstances would you use the DX, and at what point do you notice the difference in the final image?
Cheers
Neil
- Menu personal, A1 Selectie AF-C Priority release
- Menu personal, A5 AF Activate set AF-ONLY
- Menu personal, A9 AF-ON set to AF-ON (not for the D300)
- Menu personal, A10 Other AF-ON knop set to the same as AF-ON
- Focusing knob on frontside: “C”
- AF-Field selector on backsite: set to Dynamic AF.
Now you gave programmed the D3(00) so that autofocus will work only whwn you push the AF-ON (watch out: pushing the release button halfway does noet work anymore!)
This settings will give you:
Single focus:
Focus by pushing the AF-ON and relase that button when you’re satisfied (use the viewfinder to check if you want).
Move the camera (if you want) ans take the photo.
Continue AF én Dynamisch AF
Continous AF AND Dynamic AF:
Aim your AF-field to the sunject, push AF-ON and hold it while pushing the relase-button halfway. Follow your subject and the D3(00) will follow your subject in dynamic mode as sson as it dissapears from the focussing field.
You will have o get used to this method becuase you have to work with two buttons, but believe me, within one week you won’t know better.
This tip came from NikonClub Netherlands (not by me I: only adopted it warmly!
Excellent dissertation on valuable tips such as pano,focusing modes, flash set up and pic rotation. I always look forward to Thursdays to check your valuable tips. It is greatly appreciated!! Keep it up!!!
Hello guy’s
Realy a great show and very helpfull, thank’s alot. You mentioned about the Auto image Rotation function and something about an X2 (witch I wonder what the hell is it), can I use it in Photoshop, Lightroom or Bridge to auto-rotate my images insted of doing it “manualy”. Couse qute often I shoot lot’s of photos witout the Rotate tall on, I dont like it eather, and then have to rotate eatch one of them in the program, witch costs me some time.
Again thank’s alot.
Narek
Although I’ve been shooting for 30+ years, had this D300 since they were just out, I still manage to pick up a tip or two from you guys here. Now when I’m able to take a few minutes and watch I’ll sit with my camera, flash or lens just in case you give me another tidbit.
I too prefer my image review to not rotate in the camera to give me the largest image on the LCD. But my wife gripes when shes sorting through a thousand or so images that she has to rotate the verticals in Lightroom. Today’s little bit about may bring some small moment of piece to our lives.
And as far as this bit about what shirt you wear or being able to see the products, I really don’t care as long as the information is good.
Keep it up and I’ll keep watching,
Robert
I’d love to know why i sometimes find that my camera mode shifts sometimes to P* from the P mode on my D700.
approaching my one year aniverisary soon with my D700!
Hi guys, great show. I have an issue that might be good to cover in an upcoming episode if you think others would find it useful. The question is how the mirror lock-up function works. On my D80 the mirror lock-up function seems to be available in the menu sometimes, but not all the time. I haven’t taken the time to figure out why that is, but it’s quite frustrating as it seems to be unavailable at pretty random times. I mostly shoot in Aperture priority. Thanks guys.
Hi guys,
great show – I’m learning so much and then forgetting it when the next episode comes out – thank god all the episodes are all still available!!
I’ve got one question – on the ‘Matt and Scott’s Gear Bag’ page, it just lists equipment – do you both have exactly the same gear? It would be interesting to see the differences between your gear.
Keep up the great work.
Thanks !!! I really enjoy your show and have not missed one yet!!! Could you please go over how to clean the senser if you get some dust on it.
Thanks
Hey Scott D.
Appreciate you chiming in on these posts to answer a few questions. This is a wonderful resource to have at our disposal. Thanks!
Oh – BTW! Just to make it official, I think you need to lose 25 lbs. That would be about right.
Matt, you keep forgetting to introduce yourself at the beginning of the past couple shows! Scott always starts off with “Hi, I’m Scott Kelby”, but you haven’t said, “and I’m Matt Kloskowski.”
Don’t let Scott steal your thunder!
That M/S/C switch is so VERY annoying on my D200 that I’ve had to tape it down.
Surprised Nikon didn’t fix it on the 300, but I think on the D700 +D3 etc it sticks out a fair bit less.
If using an external speedlight then if the switch has moved to C-Continuous then I’ve discovered that the AF assist red light won’t work on the speedlight (or SC-29 chord). Something to look out for if beep isn’t on or in an environment where you can’t hear it.
(Low speedlight batteries also stop the AF lamp)
Great info…especially the Autofocus and Pano sections….I hope you continue these for a long time to come…very, very helpful…Thanks for making them available…
Best to all, William
Just checking back through… Ask Brad” section… great info, I was particularily glad to read about the SB800 and SB900’s ability to work as a slave utilizing photo cell slave technology (SU400) in the menu system… I am soooo happy to learn about that little option….
CLS is awesome
Scott D~
I was so glad that you talked about flash sync speed in this episode that I thought I had my D90 and SB900 all set to get some great shots at my nieces wedding, but my flash shots were somewhat blurry, especially when I had the flash mode set to ‘rear.’ I only lowered the flash sync speed to 1/30. I thought having the focus set for dynamic rather than single point would be better, but I think the camera could not figure out what was the main focus. I had the D90 on Aperture priority. When using the flash, does the shutter speed always stay at 1/60 (unless you lower it in ‘flash sync speed?’
The tip on how to make the AF beep work all the time by setting the focus mode selector to ‘S’ will also work on a D200.
What is the purpose of the beep? Is there a need for more noise?
Just an FYI – the reason the camera beeps when it focuses is to tell you that focus is LOCKED. In AF-C (continuous mode) it never locks, as it is always adjusting the focus to try to keep moving object in focus. Since it never locks, it never beeps.
I have my camera set only to focus using the AF-ON button (not pressing the shutter release half-way). That way I can leave it on AF-C all the time, and either give the button a quick press for a single focus, or hold it down for continuous focus. Someone above gave the exact menu settings to achieve this.
That is one of the reasons I shoot Nikon – I can make the camera work exactly the way I want.
Отличная работа!
country start slowly
What do you want to see on the table? Aren’t you watching the video? Go to Nikon web sight if you want to see products.
Right on Nick!
Why don’t folks take these vids for what they are. FREE – FREE & FREE. There are several folks involved in making these weekly shows happen, and for me, they are fantastic.
Scott & Matt,
wear all the black you want, and knock on the table at will ….. Just keep these vids coming
I agree with Nick & Peter. When we’re getting such a fantastic resource for free, why in the world do so many want to keep complaining about trivial nonsense? Scott & Matt, don’t let the complainers get you down. There’s tons of us watching the show that have never posted anything and we love it. Thank you for doing the show.
This is your chance to go out and experiment with flash shutter sync speed. I have to do it myself to see results, and with digital it doesn’t cost any more to take 1 or 100 shots.
Good luck
Well, most of my shots indoors involve kids and they don’t stand still. So flash sync at 1/15 sec is too slow. It has to be like 1/60 or faster in order to freeze action.
Hey Tracy,
I’m there with you, totally agree. Lots of good info to learn and it’s free.
Walt
Phil,
As I read your comment I haven’t even watched the episode yet! It’s kind of hard to see yourself on television sometimes and I just got back from a trip. So, I need to catch up on all of my blog reading tomorrow. So, thanks for the comment! Can’t wait to see it for myself!
I’m surprised someone hasn’t suggested that I lose thirty pounds! (Even though I need to!)
Rob,
I’ll give Brad a quick break and answer this one!
The mirror lock up in your D80 is for cleaning the sensor. If the battery in your camera isn’t close to full then it will not be active in the menu. Refer to your manual on page 125… at least that’s where it is on my manual.
Hope this helps,
Scott Diussa (The other Scott)
James,
That P* refers to “flexible Program Mode” and the “*” shows up when you are in P and you rotate the command dial with your thumb and change the aperture/shutter speed combination. It doesn’t go as extreme as A and S do but it is a pretty useful mode when you just want to shift what Program mode is doing…
Hope this helps,
Scott
Thanks Scott, I appreciate the response and will look into that as the answer the problem. Just a poibnt of difefrence ‘though – I use mirror lock-up to reduce camera shake when taking long exposures (eg. moon shots). I thought that that was the primary reason for the function, but now you have me wondering if it’s necessary (or useful) to use mirror lock-up on the D80 for that purpose.
Peter,
Thanks for the comment… and I’m happy to know that it’s just 25! I’ll be working on that!
Scott
Rob,
On the D80 the function labeled “Mirror Lock Up” is only for sensor cleaning and not shooting. In later cameras it is called “Mirror Lock Up For Cleaning” to make it more obvious. What you want to do in your situation for shooting is to use the Custom Function 31: Exposure Delay Mode which works like a traditional mirror lock-up mode where it brings the mirror up and lets the camera settle before opening the shutter. You just don’t have to press the shutter release twice to take a picture. Also, use a short self-timer in conjunction with it. That could help, too.
Try that for your time exposures… I think it will work well for you… (Glad I saved my D80 manual since I don’t have a D80 anymore!)
Scott
Scott, that is a brilliant piece of advice! Many thanks.
Donna,
Great questions. I’m going to briefly answer some of them here. I think this can be good stuff for a future episode… Here’s my reply to your questions…
Scott D~
I was so glad that you talked about flash sync speed in this episode that I thought I had my D90 and SB900 all set to get some great shots at my nieces wedding, but my flash shots were somewhat blurry, especially when I had the flash mode set to ‘rear.’
>>>>>
Rear sync shouldn’t really matter in this situation. It would use the same shutter speed as if it were on normal “front curtain” sync.
>>>>>
I only lowered the flash sync speed to 1/30. I thought having the focus set for dynamic rather than single point would be better, but I think the camera could not figure out what was the main focus. I had the D90 on Aperture priority. When using the flash, does the shutter speed always stay at 1/60 (unless you lower it in ‘flash sync speed?’
>>>>>
If you were in Aperture Priority mode the camera would most likely resort to about 1/60 of a second with the flash turned on. I don’t know how you adjusted it to 1/30 of a second and got blurry images. It sounds like it went a lot lower than that. Were the subjects moving a lot or were you moving the camera? If you are in A and you select “slow sync” flash mode then the shutter speed may go way too slow. Check your images and see if the camera went to 1/3 instead of 1/30. That would make a big difference.
Personally, in a situation where I am a guest at a wedding and just want to get some good images I usually leave my camera in P and set the CSM for flash shutter speed to around 1/15 at around ISO 400. That usually balances out the background with the flash lit subjects and the images look good. If I were shooting the wedding I’d be doing a lot more than that with multiple flashes and such but when I’m I guest I try to actually have some fun!
As for you AF issues. Use the AF-A mode if you have it or use a mode where all of the AF sensors are active. Make sure the AF illuminator is working on your SB-900 as well. Don’t have the camera in AF-C mode or that feature will not be active.
Lot’s of stuff… Like I said, this would be a good episode all by itself!
Thanks, Scott, for all of your advice. I will check it out. I’m still learning photog lingo…what is ‘CSM?’
The curtain setting is independant of the speed.
If an item is moving quick enough so that it causes trails e.g. car at night/dusk – then the curtain setting will set at what point the car is “frozen” in it’s path.
Front curtain – the flash will fire intially and then the rest of the shutter time will be after it. This will result in the car appearing at the Beginning of it’s path, and the light trails going ahead of it. (not great)
Rear curtain – the shutter will open and then the flash will fire right at the end. So the car will appear frozen at the end of it’s path, and the trails going back to where it used to be.
—–
To capture more background you don’t want to change the speed of the flash, as it’s not really adjustable, but instead you want to extend the length of time that the shutter is open for.
There’s some on this in the next episode.
Sorry, Donna… CSM stands for Custom Function. It should be in the menu with the red pencil in your camera.