Episode Summary 
DTown TV is a weekly show brought to you by Scott Kelby and Matt Kloskowski with KelbyTraining.com.
Episode Summary
In this week's episode, Scott and Matt discuss:
- Scott and Matt share their favorite lenses for shooting sports
- The guys show the advantage of using the Black Rapid R-Strap
- Moose Peterson tells how you can increase your Frames Per Second by changing camera settings
- Matt and Scott go on location to give tips and share their favorite lenses for shooting landscapes
nice nice nice… i like this episode
Thanks again for an informative show…
But just to be contrary, but for only the first time in 18 episodes… I really like my screw on filter holders, because it frees up my hands to manipulate controls… the only down side for me has been they can cause vignetting at wide angles, even the wide angle holder starts creeping into a photo at about 14mm on a crop sensor… that is when I go bare handed…
Again merci beaucoup!
Is there a particular “density” ND filter that you guys like to use? I know there are several degrees to choose from.
Great show!
Rick
Can someone confirm that the frame rate of the D700 increases when using DX crop mode?
Great show, as usual.
This episode did raise one question for me (and I’m sure others). For landscape shooting with a DX body you talked about the 12-24 /f4 DX lens. What are your thoughts / views on the new 10-24 /f 3.5-4.5 DX lens? Any comments?
thanks
MikeB
Great episode. Now I’m debating between the 200-400mm and the 400mm to shoot baseball games. Tough choice.
I love the show, but every episode brings me closer and closer to buying the 70-200/2.8, which I can’t afford. Now where’s my spare kidney?
Another outstanding show guys! Love what you do for us!
Hi guys, your shows are extremely informational. I haven’t missed an Episode. My question is is the 17-55mm 2.8 a good lens? I haven’t heard you guys talk about in your “lens” shows. I am an amateur. I can’t go full frame because of cost. In the DX format though I have D300,
17-55mm 2.8, 70-200mm 2.8 and 50mm 1.4. Am I on the right track as far as good lenses go?
Haven’t missed a show yet!! keep them coming great information — I have heard that Nikon is coming out this year with 3 new FX lenes. Are you alowed to give us a little heads up on them??
Jim
Thanks for great shows!
You guys influenced my last lense acquisition.
I was going for the Nikkor AF 85mm f1.4 & instead got the AF-S 70-200mm f2.8 VR.
Gave it a try last week-end. Wow! is the only word.
But please stop with those nice lenses…my budget cannot keep-up.
Now next on my list will most probably be the AF-S 24-70mm f2.8
I am curious as to why there is never any information on the D60,even in you books. Although the D40-D70 are not you high class camera’s it would be nice to have some info on there use, and how you can improvise settings if your camera is not high end. I am sure there is a lot of users out there. Thanks, Richard(Mike)michael
I just purchased my D5000 a few weeks ago and have learned alot from this site, you guys are awesome.. Keep up the good work! … Would you be able to do a feature on nightclub photography? Tips on flash / lenses / diffusers / reflectors …
Thanks again!
Great show!
Love your show, have watched every single episode . . . and I have invested in good glass . . . needless to say my bank account is in a very depleted state!!
With respect to the filters, I really like the Lee filters which slide into a holder and can be infinitely adjusted . . . either up or down or rotated. Like having my hands free.
Great shows . . .look forward to Thursday of every week.
Great show! I have to watch your show in the silence of the night because my wife has forbiden your show due to the impact that it have on our family budget! I think he try to spot your location and have a few words with you guyz!
However I wonder why you have not put the ND glass on the filter mount, you probaly don’t advise us to make photos like you have show us! The fact is that on 14-24 2,8 you cannot mount any filter system like Cookin Z mount for example! There is a lens like 17-35 2,8 but Nikon has some plans with this lens since is very hard to get or to find. Enlight us! You ar probably closer to Nikon that we are! Thx!
Can you clarify if a teleconverter as discussed on the show will work with a D300?
Very informative show, thanks.
Geo
Great series on lenses, thanks.
You talked about the 70-300 VR for outdoor sports. Do you have any thoughts on the 80-400 VR for the same setting? It has the same f-stop range and a goes to 400mm.
Once again, thanks for the great show.
Tiago
Great show guys! Just wondering….was that the RRS BH-55 ballhead being shown during the “in the field” portion of your show? Also, which Gitzo tri were you featuring? Keep up the good work.
(….the 70-200/2.8….time to pull the trigger….)
Another great episode. Keep it up guys
another great episode, thanks for showing the ND grad filter.
Quick question about sports photography/shooting.
I own the 70-200mm VR 2.8 and was out shooting some skateboarders. Some of the images were a little soft and I know it’s not the lens it was my focus.
I had the camera/lens set to autofocus so that I could follow the action. Outside of my matrix metering for the sky, skate park, etc. What focus setting should I use on my camera to ensure I am always getting a crisp, sharp image. (Using a D300).
Thanks,
Seth
There seem to be endless debates about the perceived/observed degradation of images using filters in front of good glass. Seems like a resin graduated ND filter like the Tiffen used by Scott Kelby would rob the image of sharpness, contrast, etc. Is this a valid concern, and are glass filters preferred? Durability I imagine would favor resin.
Guys..how about if you’re planning on upgrading from the D300 to the D700 at some point. For wide angle would it be best to buy the 14-24mm? Expensive and different focal lengths on each, but would it do the trick when a wide-angle is needed for the D300 NOW and extra wide when going to the D700?
I have yet to see a good explanation of the 105 DC lensor 153 DC. How does Defocus Control work and where can I see samples?
I love the show I watch it every week and I was wondering what kind of monopod are they using on the show?
Keep up the good work!
If you want use filters flexible on all our lenses, you can also work with the Cokin Creative System. I work with this and the ND gradual filters .. it’s great.
http://www.cokin.com/ico1-p1.html
First and foremost … thanks for the priceless knowledge I’ve received from your shows. My question is this: I have a D300 and enjoy shooting landscapes, macro, and all around general photography. Nothing with fast action, etc … Do I need all of the “fast” lenses ie: f2.8 or will a slower lens like a f4 do the job? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Mike.
Why did you pick the 12-24 lens over the 10-24? Is the IQ better with 12-24?
umm, odd question but was the on location segment actually shot in studio?
Thanks Guys for the excellent shows on lenses.
I can attest to the quality and performance of the 70-200 f2.8 lenses for sports. I shoot a lot of triathlon races and because I know the race directors for most of the races and because I’m a triathlete myself do I get the privilege of being allowed into transition during the race. The 70-200 lets me get right into the action without getting in the way of the athletes and not missing a single shot.
Another enjoyable show. I also feel the 17-55 2.8 should have been mentioned, but no matter. I know it has been touched on by others, but since this show is geared more to beginners who may not have $2k to drop on a lens, how ’bout a show for nikon’s best bargain lenses. 50 1.8, 18-55 vr, 18-70, 55-200vr, first spring to mind. I am sure Nikon wouldn’t care since the profit margin is probably higher on those anyway!
Great show guys but all the way through my eye kept getting drawn to the 200mm f/2. I just purchased one of those puppies and have to say it has to be the sharpest piece of glass Nikon have made. Would love to hear your take on it but then I guess maybe that’s in the next episode?
Greetings from Denmark.
Great show – keep on the good work
Is it not wrong to speend a lot of money on good top quality glass, and then hold a pice of plastic in front of it while shooting?
Awesome show, I’ve learned so much about lens. Quick question, when you talk about using two bodies on a sports shoot to go back and forth between lens….or having a camera in each hand to shoot quickly…are you mainly on autofocus? if so, how are the results. On fast action shoots, your thoughts on manual vs. auto? Thanks much.
Hey Moose;
You failed to mention that by adding the Nikon MD-10 battery grip to the D300/D700 you can increase the frame rate from 6 fps to 8 fps.
I’m experimenting to try to find the best setting for the 70-300 to get sharp shots at 300mm. I’ve seen a lot of other photographers commenting on it, too. So, not so sharp at 300, and you may need f/8 or higher, especially higher, to get sharp shots.
Lovely episode guys, extremely enjoyable! Looking forward to the future shows to come!
Can anyone please tell me how to find the high-speed crop option which Moose says is available on the D700 to boost the frame rate. It is an option on the D3 (as he also said) but I can’t find it on the D700. Probably right there in some menu I’ve overlooked
On this episode Scott mentions: “for landscapes it’s not as much of an advantage to get fast glass but rather to get good glass”.
My question is, other than a large aperture like f2, 2,8, 1.4 etc. what are the indicators of “good glass”. I would like to purchase better lenses but other than going for the most expensive lens in the focal length I want I don’t know any more than that. I find reviews are often very biased by whoever wrote it. I would prefer to start by looking at the technical data on a given lens, but I don’t know what I’m looking for.
On one of the “lens” episodes Scott and Matt refer to a chart they created explaining all the markings on lenses and what they mean. I could not find this chart. Perhaps that chart would shed some light on my question?
Thanks,
Jerry
Love these shows, thank you!
Could you share more info on the grad filter? I’m having a hard time figuring out which one on Tiffen’s site is the one you use.
Awesome, Glad you guys are coming back next year. Wish I would have known about show months ago. I have been watching the past shows. Keep up the good work.
I don’t think the frame rate increases, just the amount of photos in your buffer increases.
Chris, the Nikkor 17-55mm F2.8 is kind of 24-70mm F2.8 but in DX version, is an awesome lens, very sharp AND VERY expensive TOO. I do believe this folks don’t mention this one too much cause a DX factor, but is definitively a super glass.
have a great day
CesarD
Chris, I can say that the combo Nikon D300 with the 17-55mm is great! Fast focus, very sharp, good color and great out-of-focus representation.
Before the FX format came out, the 17-55 was my favorite lens period. I can’t recommend it enough for DX users
Brad Moore
DTown TV Technical Editor
Agree
I hear you. This lens is always there! The guys talked about the 70-300 VR lens for outdoors, but the 2.8 of the 70-200 seems a must. KIDNEY!!! I hope I can get my daughter back!
You can always get the Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 … it’s a good lens at half the Nikon price!
I’m also curious for your thoughts on the new 10-24 /f 3.5-4.5 DX lens.
I should think that this lens is more preferable for landscape photographers than the mentioned 12 /24 f4 DX lens.
Great show btw…
Benny
Me too im torn between two great lenses the 10-24 /f 3.5-4.5 DX lens and
12-24 /f4 DX lens I hope you can discuss this two lenses.
thanks
Jim – Keep in mind that there is no such thing as an “FX” lens, just non-DX lenses. We haven’t heard anything about new lenses, but if they do come out with something, I’m sure we’ll talk about it as soon as we get our hands on it!
Brad Moore
DTown TV Technical Editor
Richard – If you go back and watch previous episodes, you’ll see tips on the D60, D40, and D5000. We haven’t mentioned these cameras specifically in this series because we’re talking about lenses, not bodies.
Brad Moore
DTown TV Technical Editor
The teleconverter Scott mentioned on the show works with my D300, no problem. It works with a variety of glass allowing all functions.
My preference for that extra reach is the 1.7, if I’m going to use a teleconverter, but Scott’s point that you only lose 1 f-stop with the 1.4 is well made.
Me too!!!!
I know that you like to recommend only the lenses that you actually use and that the 10-24mm is not in your bags, but can you please make an exception and tell us what you think of this one?
In any case, GREAT SHOW!!! Thanks for doing it.
I have yet to see an explanation of the DC lenses by Nikon. 105 or 135. It would be great to see some samples for comparison.
You might look at two web sites, the first explains bokeh and the second looks at the Nikkor DC lenses.
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/bokeh.shtml
http://www.stacken.kth.se/~maxz/defocuscontrol/
Hi Rick,
If you go to;
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-grads.shtml
not only does the article explain ND filters, but it also shows a holder on the lens for the oblong ND’s featured in this episode.
This allows you to use them and keep your hands free as the ND filter is adjustable in the holder.
I have a non-Nikon 2x teleconverter, and I have a problem with auto-focus function on both my D40x and, but not as much, on D300. Will the Nikon 1.4x teleconverter allow me to auto-focus without any problem? Anybody has any experience with it?
You can tell by the audio that it was shot on location.
Thanks, I must have misunderstood Moose’s tip.
What is the point of putting a Cokin or Tiffen plastic filter in front of your quality Nikkor glass. You have purchased your expensive glass for its image quality, and now you’re going to put some plastic in front of that? If you are going to use a filter, use Singh-Ray or Lee filters.
Hey john,
They probably chose the 12-24mm over the 10-24 because the 12-24 is a f2.8 and the 10-24 is a f3.5-4.5. The 12-24 f2.8 can be used in lower light conditions. The lower the f ratings are the better/best lenses, however they are in fact much more expensive, probably twice as expensive.
Walt
The faster lenses, the ones with lower f-numbers, are not just for action. The lower f-number means wider aperture. More light under low-light conditions. Which means broader range of shooting opportunities. It also means that you’ve got a shallower depth of field, for isolating the subject in busy compositions. This is less important for landscapes than for portraits, sports, or many macros. As Scott says, for landscapes you don’t need fast glass, but you do need good glass, so your f4 would work fine for you. In fact, depending on what you shoot and under what conditions you shoot it, f4 may be more than adequate to your needs. That said, you may find yourself in situations where f4 is just marginal enough to dissatisfy you with the output. Too busy a background, too much shake in low light, even under exposure. In which case the benefits of a faster lens, f2.8, even f1.4 will become apparent. The simplest solution is to go with what you got, until you find that it doesn’t produce the results you’re looking for. Then move into better glass. I recommend against incrementalism, here. You’ll spend a LOT of money that you don’t need to spend, in the long run. Go directly for the good stuff. The best you can find. Then you’ve got all your ranges, all your situations, covered, all your opportunities prepared for, and you’ve not spent your way through 3, 4 of 5 lenses to get there.
Brian – Scott talks about the 200 f/2 in Episode 16, the first part of the lens series, toward the end of the episode.
Brad Moore
DTown TV Technical Editor
The 12-24 is f4, not f2.8, DX only.
The 14-24 is 2.8 and a “little bit” bigger.
Warren,
I just want to say thank you for taking the time to answer my question and for your insight.
Mike
Warren,
You hit it right on the head, I’m fairly new to this game, but if your gonna get into it seriously go with the good glass, lowest f stop numbers you can afford, because as your skills improve by using the cheaper/not as expensive lenses you’ll go thru a few before you get what you want. The better lenses produce so much better results.
Walt
The 80 – 400 is a fine lens but it is slow to focus and thus is not ideal for sports.
Jan,
I got my fstop numbers mixed up, but the point in general is the lower the f stop number the better the lens for low light conditions and absolutely the more expensive the lens will be. Go low F if you can afford it. in the long run thats the way to go. Walt
You might have to turn on all settings in the camera setup menus. Instead of selecting basic set up on the setup window, check and select show all options instead.
I don’t believe you misunderstood. I believe Moose misspoke. As I said in the very first comment in this discussion, Moose lumped the D3 and D700 together in saying both offered faster frame rate through switching to the high-speed crop. As Woutk89 noted, on the D700 the DX crop increases the buffer but not the frame rate. Surprised that Brad didn’t simply post a clarification back at the beginning.