Episode Summary 
DTown TV is a weekly show brought to you by Scott Kelby and Matt Kloskowski with KelbyTraining.com.
Episode Summary
In this week's episode, Scott and Matt discuss:
- Variable Minimum Aperture vs. Constant Aperture
- FX and DX cameras and lenses explained
- If you own a lens, you're going to use it for everything!
- Moose Peterson shows how to carry your camera to protect your lens
- Scott and Matt share their favorite lenses for shooting portraits
Hmm, it’s maximum aperture, guys, not minimum aperture. Or you should have said minimum f-number.
Other than that, nice show.
Thanks guy’s on another great show. As a photojournalist who’s main area is in sports photography I look at a lot of different glass. Just got my new baby the Nikon 300 2.8 and I love it but the 70-200 has been my work horse for years. While I’ve been shooting since I was five I’m always looking at stuff and trying to learn and your site is a must each week. Keep up the great job.
Matt,
Just wondering if the Tshirt that you are wearing is available for purchase somewhere? I enjoy the show and watch it every week!!!
Great show, I’m drooling over the 70-200 really want to get that lens, its awesome.
Great show! You answered my questions, can’t wait on the rest of the lens series. Thanks again
I also use the Sigma 150-500 when shooting head and shoulders using a D700. Unbelievable background at the long end and a lot less money then the 200 f/2 lens. I shoot a lot of sports of my kids and great lens.
Love the show. Cheers,
Great episode. Looking forward to the macro lenses.
Great show, good info, easy to understand, can’t wait till next Thursday.
cooksfriend
I follow your show every week and I think you are doing a great job with obvious acceptable willing to sell Nikon stuff.
For anyone who’s going to by some lenses let’s wait for part 2-3-4, I’m sure you will hear talking about fabulous prime lens like 35 1.8 or 50 1.4 that are in a really much more affordable range price ($200-$300).
I watch D-town every single week. Thursday is my favorite day now. keep up the great work! and thank you so much!
i would very much like to hear about the 35mm f1.8 lens soon. =D
You discussed DX vs FX and mentioned crop factor, but then when you discussed favorite lenses, you didn’t specify what size sensor you were talking about. I’m assuming that you’re talking about these FX lenses on FX bodies, but I’m guessing that a big chunk of your audience has a DX body.
This episode rocked! I gotta say, I learned more about lenses in 12 minutes watching this episode, than any book. Great info and I cannot wait for part 2, 3 or even 4 as Scott mentioned.
I’m diggin’ it!
You forgot to mention two big advantages of using a faster lens.
1 – Brighter viewfinder image
2 – Better/faster autofocus.
Scott, Matt, this was a very informative session. It really clarified alot of things that I was unsure of and you made your points in a very clear and concise manner. My thanks for a very nice presentation. Now I won’t be able to look at a f-stop without thinking of you guys (there’s a scarry scenario). Thanks again.
What an amazing show. I am so looking forward to the next 3 eps. Thank you for clearing up the DX FX sensor.
Dont forget to drop by and take a look around.
http://ectoone.redbubble.com/
That was awesome to know again. thanks for the remember of lenes.
Have not missed an episode – that is how much I enjoy your presentations.
A small shared (you both do it) habit – tapping / slapping / thumping the table top – usually done when you are finished with a topic is subtle, but consistent.
It is a minor distraction, which with time, will fade on its own as comfort / confidence increase. Fully understand your not publishing this, but did want this observation to help what otherwise are very well done productions.
Keep up the good work – you are helping many of us trying to learn just a small portion of Nikon product features – now as sophisticated as some early computers!
Thanks for “listening.”
I just want to expand on Michell’s comment: “it’s maximum aperture, guys, not minimum aperture”. Michell is quite right.
The minimum aperture refers to the *smallest* hole that a lens offers (say f/22). The maximum aperture refers to the largest hole, say f/2.8.
The “f” refers to the focal length of the lens. So if you have a 200 mm lens at f/2.8 then the aperture (the diameter of the hole) is 200 mm / 2.8, which is 71 mm (a big hole).
The same lens zoomed out to 70 mm at f/2.8 has an aperture of 70 mm / 2.8, which is 25 mm (a small hole).
Hope this helps.
Tim.
Wow I explained that badly. (Mental note: Never post something till you’ve saved it and read it again!)
Let’s try that again:
So if you have a 200 mm lens at f/2.8 then the aperture (the diameter of the hole) is 200 mm / 2.8, which is 71 mm (a big hole).
Conversely, if you have a 200 mm lens at f/22 then the aperture is 200 mm / 22, which is only 9 mm (a small hole).
That’s better.
Very cool episode. The sample photographs really make a point totally clear. And Moose’s tip was so simple yet so clever.
Btw, in an upcoming lens episode, could you slip in a bit explaining what “internal focus” means and how it effects a lens’ characteristics.
Cheers!
There is one big drawback on using these top-lenses like the 24-70 F2.8: you don’t want to use anything else anymore! I bought myself the 17-55 f2.8 on the D300 and now I it is the one lens in use.
I agree with Max. I’d also like to know which camera you are using when you talk about your favorite lenses and which camera you used for the sample shots. Apart from that: Great show! Keep it going!
[...] neuste Folge Nr. 16 von DTown-TV beschäftigt sich mit den Nikon Objektiven. Da es zu dem Thema sehr viel zu sagen gibt wird es [...]
As allways brilliant advices from Moose Peterson. Only one suggestion – is it possible to put Moose in just a little not so noisy environment
Great show I learned more watching your shows than any courses I took on photography. Keep up the good work.
Hi guys. Got my D90 with 18-105 lens. Sometimes when i turn it on, it show F–, which means “NO LENS”, all I need to do is move lens a bit and it shows normal F3.5. So the Q is, Is it doing it cause its new, or thats a fault and i better change it/fix it…??
Thanks
Great show! Are there any drawbacks to using FX lenses on DX bodies (quality etc)? I agree that a lot of folks watching probably have DX bodies, but if (like me) they are expecting to move to FX down the road, investments in FX glass now might be worthwhile.
On a more sweeping question, do you think full frame will move down into consumer end cameras or will it be reserved for higher end pro ones ?
Paul.
I second that! I own a D90 and am investing in lenses. I’d love to hear if you recommend buying FX lenses for DX bodies so that the lens retains its full usefulness if you upgrade to a full sensor body.
Or is it better to simply buy DX glass and then sell the whole package when upgrading to FX?
Great show, very informative. Looking forward to the next episode. Now can you send me that fisheye
Hey Matt and Scott.
Big thanks from sweden here!
This show has got me to quit all my other hobbies and go hard at photography. Superb show this week with explaining DX/FX, which I have had a hard time understanding, but you make it simple!
Thanks again, and i’m waiting till next weeks episode.
Hey guy’s,
Good start on the lens subject.I agree on your favorite lens choice, and make most of my photography based income with the 70 200 2.8, on a D700 and D200 Just a great combination.
Keep up the good work.
J
Hello Scott and Matt,
Great, great show on lenses – particularly for one like me who has been at digital photography for about 1.5 years and has limited lens knowledge. This information is what I am looking for!
Thank you so much,
Guy
Loved this episode. I agree on your choices of favorite lenses (24-70 and 70-200). Both lenses are expensive, but well worth the cost. I recently was in Morocco and used the 24-70 most of the time:
http://www.pshawphoto.com/Morocco%20Photos/
One point I think you might want to add: The best lens is the one you have with you. By this I mean, it is pointless to buy an expensive, heavy lens that you are unwilling to carry with you on trips, etc. Better to buy the lens you are likely to use. This is different for each photographer. Keep up the good work.
Once again, a great informative show.
One of your best so far as I’m concerned because I shoot with a Canon! Your description of sensor sizes with visual examples couldn’t have been clearer. All the lens info transfers well to the Canon alternative. Great show no matter what camera you choose.
Great show as usual! However, as an amateur, I would prefer to get your lens recommendations for DX shooters
Keep doing the good work!
Another stellar show guys! The only thing I think that was not mentioned is how using those lenses on a cropped sensor turn that 70-300 into a 105-450. So unless you’re shooting on a D700, D3 or D3X, all of the focal lengths are not as advertised. You have to multiply the focal lengths by 1.5 to get the true number.
Luv the show,
Is the 70-200 an FX lens?
Keep up the great work.
Great show guys! You answered some questions I had. I wish I would have had this information about two years ago, can’t wait to see the rest of the lens series.
So what do you think about the Nikon 85/1.4? It’s my favourite portrait lens on my D700. It would fall in somewhere between the 70-200/2.8 and 200/2 I think. Very shallow depth of field and beautiful bokeh, but maybe a bit on the short side. I also believe it’s the cheapest of the three
.
Great Show. How do you physically determine if the lens is FX? I am looking at my 18-200 f3.5.6 and it has a big DX on it. But my 70-300 f4.5-5.6 shows “ED”. Does ED mean it is for full frame?
I guess I have to be the bad guy and say that this was one of the less useful episodes! Love the show, so don’t get me too wrong! But as all the other posters mentioned, as soon as you got to the “favorite” lens spot, you completely forgot the entire DX/FX issue.
So Scott, while your love your 70-200 for portraits on your D3, those of us with APS size sensors would love a 46-133 2.8 lens if that existed!
We can figure it out, just surprised that the DX/FX talk went right out the window near the end!
Keep up the great work though, it is a totally excellent show all in all!!!
(p.s., the poster who is getting the f– error. If you browse around, you will see that this is an very pervasive problem, and apparently everyone who calls Nikon gets the same answer: “we have not heard of this”. I bought the 18-200 VR, which I love, but it gave me that error on the D70. Sent the D70 back for service, as I figured it was a camera issue. Put the lens on the D90 and still get the error once and a while. Just twist the lens, it goes away. There is a design problem with the contacts between the lens and camera. Someone suggested cleaning the contacts with a de-oxidizer, but I have not done it yet.)
Love the idea for this show. One question I have about the crop factor. Does it apply when putting a DX lens on a DX camera, or only when using a FX lens?
Thanks guys,
Jeff
This was a brilliant episode. I watched every minute of it as it was so informative! Many thanks!
Great episode and the must see program for the Nikon Shooter! Thanks and look forward to future segments.
Finally, a show that I can understand and is geared for my camera. My D300 does so much I would have never figured it out without you. I enjoy and appreciate what you are doing. Keep up the good work.
Hi guys; Love the show! BUT – it takes me 10 to 15 minutes to open it up!!! HELP – make it quicker to open!!
I’m using Road Runner Turbo too….
Keep up the great work & I’m looking forward to the current eipsode – once I get it open…..
HELLO
Is the 70-200mm f/2.8 realy an FX lens? , because I think it’s not . I’ve got the 24-70mm on my d700 and I need 70-200 so maybe should I wait until Nikon release upgrade to 70-200mm designed especially for FX.
please reply!!!
What is your opinion of the Nikon 60mm micro lens? My pro friends think I should have opened the window and thrown the money out. OK, I use it on a Fuji IS Pro IR camera, and a S5 with a SB900 IR flash. I use it for fingerprints, blood splatter well as Fine Art.
is it allowed to burn the shows on a dvd and give it to friends ?
Andreas from Germany
Scott & Matt – Thanks for being willing to take the heat and show us what you use. Some things are worth paying for, ….maybe I can use this episode to help convince my husband.
…the 200mm f2 doubles as exercise equipment, right?
If you’re going to teach, how about getting the facts straight. Minimum aperture is the SMALLEST opening of a lens possible. Maximum aperture is the LARGEST opening.
Very surprised to hear both of you refer to f/2.8 as the Minimum Aperture of a lens which is wrong.
Hi
Scott & Matt Excellent show enjoyed every moment and learned a bit more on FX/DX subject. Can’t wait to next week. Quick question if I may. I just bought the 24-85 f2.8 -4 for my D700 as I belive it is full frame but a tad better on the budget at arount £500gbp. Have you any opinion on this lens. I would love to hear.
Tony from Ireland
Great intro to lenses! I love the way you guys present. Mea culpa if I missed a mention of whether your favorite portrait lenses are being used with FX or DX sensor cameras. Does Scott really like to go out to f2.8 @ 300mm equivalent on his D300 for portrait shots?
Might be useful to mention size / weight factors of those f2.8 lenses. Travelling light or doing a lot of walking I prefer the 16-85 and 70-300 or the 18-200 if I only have room for one lens. The 70-200 is great, but is heavy and not at all unobtrusive.
Jim
S.K. – What an incredible portrait of Vincent Versace, …so timeless.
Thanks for another great episode. It is a wonderful source of information. I have a follow up question on the fixed aperture lenses. Just this weekend I had in my hands Nikon 105 mm f/2.8 micro AF-S VR lens. To my surprise, while focusing from different distances, the lowest available aperture was not always f/2.8. I believe for most of the close-ups I did, I couldn’t go lower than f/3.5. Is it only a macro fixed aperture lens which is not? Can other lenses have variable aperture depending on some conditions? I don’t know if the fact that I have Nikon D40x has any importance.
Another great segment. I was very surprised that no one mentioned the 85mm -1.4 lens. Great lens, great speed! Surprised, since almost everyone affiliated with Nikon pushes this lens. Also, can we get to see any NX2 work and tutorials from Mike Rubin?
How about discussing alternative and low cost lenses?
Like the old 50mm f1.8 or 50mm f1.4.
Hi Guys would be great if you can discuss which is the best 50mm lens: the 1.4 D or G or 1.8 D. I wanna buy a 50mm but cannot make up mind mind between these three. Thanks a tonne!
Thanks Matt and scott for a great tips on lenses.
I love this show. I just bought yesterday a AF-S 35mm f1.8G DX
for my D90 and i was amazed it is really tact sharp and nice bokeh.
thanks again more power for this show.
hope to hear more about lenses lectures.
thanks!
Great show guys! We are going on a Caribbean Cruise and I want to travel light. Will my 18-200 VR lens cover me for most situations? It is probably not the best lens made but it might make travel easier and still give me good vacations shots. What do you guys think??
Thank you for D-TownTV. I’m thoroughly enjoying the shows and learning a lot every week. Keep up the good work.
I own a 18-200mm and a 50mm 1.8. I love the 50mm because of the bokeh. I keep showing my family the pictures and they are happy with the results. No p&s camera I ever had got such results. I wish I bought the D90 when I went to all my dream vacations. Nevertheless, great show and I’ll be looking forward to more.
What about the cleaning of the lens? In my photos appears a dot and although i cleaned my lens it still appears; what can i do? Is the dust on the ccd? Great job! Regards from Greece.
Hi Scott & Matt – Thanks so much for these courses. You guys do a great job. I look forward to watching every week!
Another great show, thanks guys.
Finally understand the ‘fast lens’ terminology! I knew what I liked just didn’t understand the techy reasons for it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Matt & Scott.
Scott & Matt, I really enjoy your shows all of them Killer Tips, Photoshop and now D-Town. I learn something on every show.
I’m wondering if a short discussion on the math on F stops might enlighten (pun intended). It has been a while since I had a physics class but my memory tells me that with every F stop increment the amount of light actually doubles and the counter intuitive numbering is a mathematical formula, bigger the opening smaller the number. In fact the whole discussion on sutter increments equaling a F stop would be …dare I say it again? This reads like a chapter introduction
Hey Guys,
Thanks so much for the show! I have been loving it! I was wondering if you could cover filters as you talk about lenses. Especially using clear or UV ones as protection. I’d love to hear the pros and cons. I’ve heard some people swear by having them and others say that it messes with focus at times (especially on lenses like the 50mm 1.4 and 85mm 1.4). Is this true? or just a myth?
Thanks!
Another fantastic and informative show guys. I hadn’t realized this was even here until I saw it posted in Scott’s blog yesterday.
Anyway, I wanted to know if anyone here knows what that one particular lens is that they have on the table? The one that’s in the middle or it would be third from left. I think they introduced all of the lens but that one and I believe it’s the one I’ve been looking at for my next purchase.
If anyone can give me some insight as to what the lens is I’d appreciate it!
Thanks!
Scott, Matt, great show, just received my 24-70
Do you have a trick how to change lenses very quickly while you’re in the field and have only two hands? Would be great if you can demonstrate it in one of the next shows.
Thanks
Patrick
Hi Scott & Matt,
Thanks for the great episodes full of information. My question/comment is regarding lenses. I own and use both 70-200mm f/2.8 and 24-70mm f/2.8.
I know f/2.8 gives shallow depth of field. But at what point would someone start using f/2.8? Sometimes when focussing on the nose, the ears would focus soft. In the studio, most people I know, shoot f/8. So I am kind of confused about when to shoot wide open.
Thanks.
Just discovered D-Town TV – it’s great, well done guys! I’m interested that you show the 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR DX: I have this but was disappointed with the image quality – the resolution and the distortion. All the same it’s a great walkabout lens. I now tend to use the 16-85 3.5-5.6 VR DX which has better resolution and the extra wide angle is useful. OK, horizons can bend a little at 16 – it’s not a pro lens after all – but the distortions are MUCH less than the 18-200. Perhaps this little lens deserves a mention on the show; of course, maybe you don’t talk about anything other that what you actually use, but I still think a note about the 16-85 wouldn’t be amiss next time you show the 18-200.
I love how DX is the “traditional”, old school format, while FX a.k.a. 35mm film format is a bold “new thing”.
[...] If you haven’t watched the other Lens shows, start at Episode 16 [...]
Love D-Town just one minor thoght, when you speak of a lens going down to f2 like the nikkor 200mm f2 I believe you mean the lens goes up to f2. When you go to an aperture like f16 you are stopping the lens down and when referring to a lens wide open (like the 200mm f2 @ f2) you are opening up the lens to it widest aperture and shooting wide open. The f stop is the ratio of lens diameter to the focal length. Thanks for all the great information and keep up the fanstastic job you are doing.
Great review about lenses, wanted to know how you would compare the 70-200 2.8 af-s vr to the 80-200 2.8 af-d
would you consider the non-vr version performing same as the vr version
thanks
Here is an example of an environmental portrait taken at the 24mm end of the 24-70 F2.8. as discussed by Matt.
http://www.tcknight.com/assets_d/17041/portfolio_media/lwsmxc_a0103_115.jpg
[...] protect your lens – Scott and Matt share their favorite lenses for shooting portraits” http://www.dtowntv.com/2009/06/episode-16-lenses-part-1/ or on iTunes Share this on del.icio.usDigg this!Share this on RedditStumble upon something good? [...]
[...] Lenses Part 1 Lenses Part 2 Lenses Part 3 Lenses Part 4 Lenses Part 5 [...]
[...] Lenti parte 1 [...]
Question on DX/FX difference:
I understand that FX on a DX = 1.5 x multiplier
I understand that DX on a FX = “crop”
I’m wondering what the difference is at the viewfinder. My guesses are:
FX on a DX = You see what you get and get what you see?
DX on a FX = The picture is noticeably smaller in the viewfinder?
Could someone please confirm or deny my guesses?
Is it just me or does this video end abruptly? I was at about 13 min into it and it stops playing.
[...] TV has an episode: Lenses Part 1 that features a number of lenses, including the popular Nikon 20-200mm f/2.8. One of the cool [...]
Excellent show. Can’t get enough of your show. This my secound round that I am watching this one after another.
I got a bridge camera (actually I bought this for my wife, when the Point & shoot died for some mysterious reason) before jumping into Nikon world of DSLR and found your show.
Your show helps me a lot.
Agreed.
I’d assume that the majority that watch this show aren’t pro’s and so more likely to have DX bodies + lenses.
One thing I’d like to know, which has always confused me:
Will a DX lens on a DX body set at, say 55mm (2.8)
give the same picture (area covered / angle of view – ignoring DOF)
as a FX lens on a FX body set at 55mm (2.8)?
Never sure if lens manufacturers adjusted the focal length rating of DX lenses to be quiivalent to FullFrame – or just left them as is.
Ha ha – I do that, but usually when an idea comes to me rather than at the conclusion of something.
Get off the bull****
These guys do an outstanding job of putting out so much useable information on so many different models of cameras and equipment. If their tapping of hands bothers you go somewhere else, this is a great site, and oh by the way it’s free
Is it just that lens ?
Shouldn’t do it – full stop.
I’d start out by cleaning the CPU contacts on the camera lens mount, and on the lens and try again. If it still happens then worth checking with a nikon Service centre – especially if still in warranty.
Robert,
Actually, on a Nikon camera the autofocus system is fully functional with an aperture of f5.6 or lower. There are no AF sensor or speed differences between, say, 2.8 and 5.6 but yes, there is a viewfinder brightness difference.
Now, this is for the Nikon system. It is different with other systems such as Canon so I don’t know if you were referring to a Nikon camera. I’m assuming you are. If you are shooting Canon then check your camera manual for how many AF sensors work with which apertures. It varies…
Paul,
For your first question there is no issue with using a lens that can cover a FX sensor on a DX camera body. To clarify… Nikon does not call them FX lenses because they work on both FX and DX formats. So, no problem there. I personally love the 70-300VR on a DX camera… it’s a great combination.
As for your second question… I have no idea and I work for Nikon. Sorry…
Scott
Please Clarify.
I apologize, I just watched the show again and Scott hits on it just prior to talking about the FX sensor cameras.
No, the 55mm focal length lens on a DX body will have a smaller angle of acceptance than a 55mm on an FX body. For example, the Nikkor 35 f/1.8G DX lens has an angle of view(or angle of acceptance)of 44° and the Nikkor 35 f/2D (not DX)is 62° on an FX (full frame) body. So, the angle of view is approximately 1 1/2 times as wide on the FX body. This is what Scott and Matt were demonstrating with image sensor in a circle graphics.
The f stop has very little to do with the lens’ angle of view. See TimFromPerth’s comments on f stops.
The focal length of a lens is just that, the distance from the film plane or sensor of the camera to the rear “nodal point” of the lens when the lens is focused at “infinity”. It doesn’t matter if the lens is on a DX, FX, 4×5 or any other camera, a 50mm lens is a 50mm lens. That’s not to say that a 50mm DX lens will necessarily fill the frame of an FX camera; that has to do with the size of the image circle the lens produces. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal_length for a thorough lesson on lens focal lengths.
So, to answer your question, no there isn’t any “adjustment” to the lens’ stated focal length for different size sensors or film
thats the thing… what to clean if its new…? and yes, its sounds like contacts… when u move lens just a bit, its ok. and I dont have another lens to try…
ED stands for Extra-Low Dispersion glass. From support.nikontech.com “ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass is a Nikon innovation designed to overcome the problems of other types of high performance glass like calcium fluorite-based glass, which is very fragile and easily scratched. ED glass reduces chromatic aberration and keeps light of various wavelengths focused at virtually the same point. This results in a more contrasty image with less color distortion.”
Basically, if doesn’t say DX on the lens it isn’t one. Your 70-300 will certainly work on a DX camera though.
The only criticism I have of this episode is that Scott perpetuated the idea that a 35 mm lens is not a 35 mm lens when you mount it on a DX camera. The focal length of a lens does not change, no matter what it is mounted to. Only the field of view changes. So a 35 mm lens on a DX body gives the same field of view as a 52.5 mm lens on a DX body. If you mount a 35 mm on an 8×10 view camera it will be a super wide angle and if you mount it on your cell phone it will be a super telephoto, but it will still have a focal length of 35 mm.
To add to Paul’s comments… yes, the second part of this first lens episode seemed rather counterproductive for the majority of the viewers that are interested in this subject. Whatever your personal favorites are, this could have been mentioned in the last one of the lens episodes.
As Scott started off with someone buying a D5000 and then asking what lens to get, it’s probably not a good idea to shock them with presenting “great” lenses in the price-range of $1500 – $5000! Yes, they truly are great but there are a lot of other great lenses that do a good job in a price range that’s more suited for amateurs and enthusiasts… assuming the person asking the question is one, since he bought a D5000 instead of a D3. A $300 50mm F1.4 gets you the same DOF as the 200mm F2, just not the same compression and quality. But if DOF is the only criteria you mention, then there are 4700 reasons against the 200mm F2.
Again, since the show is mainly geared towards people that are just starting out in photography, I think it would have been more appropriate to show them FIRST what gear they can get that fits their budget and still get great images with it. Once you’ve shown them what they can achieve right now, you can always show them AFTER what the pros (you!) use to get even more quality out of it…
Anyways, the concept of the show is great and definitely an outstanding addition to the community.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks guys,
1) I use a D300 (not a full frame camera) and love my 70-200 for portraits. Its the lens that stays on my camera the most.
2) Yep, we knew we’d take heat for the “favorite” thing but the only other alternative would be “we recommend this” or “you could use this lens or you could use this”. That would open the flood gates. We can’t cover all of the lenses possible, so we figured the best thing to do would be to tell people what “we” use. That way, we can talk about it more personally and no one can tell us we’re wrong
Thanks,
Matt K
And some of my pics shot with D700 24-70mm
http://picasaweb.google.com/Kriso81dub
Hi Kris;
Yes, the 70-200 2.8 works on the D700. It is FANTASTIC! If you like the 24-70 you’ll love this lens. I have both of these for my D700 and this combination is amazing! I have been fighting with the idea of a 1.7 or 2.0 teleconverter for the 70-200 to give me that extra reach.
Yes, it will.
Ken – Can you subscribe through iTunes and watch it that way?
Do a poll and I’m sure you’ll find that:
a) 99% of people make the same error…including (as demonstrated) well seasoned pros.
b) Whomever conceived of the apperture size/ratio number scale devised something entirely counter-intuitive.
c) 99% of viewers still understood exactly what Scott and Matt meant..which is all that really matters.
Personally, I will always make the mistake of considering ‘minimum aperture’ with a a low f-number, simply because it seems a logical correspondent.
I believe Steve is right.
There is a difference between a casual talk and a course.
The number f of an aperture is fractional. f/2.8 is larger than f/11. More light comes through when you divide the opening by 2.8 rather than 11.
But lets keep in mind that what Scott and Matt are doing is awesome and extremely useful to a lot of people.
Few people in this industry actually give back.
So thank you guys.
Its still a “minimum” aperture number. as its 1/aperture number
both ways work.
Joe,
The 18-200VR lens is one of my favorites. You shouldn’t think anything different regarding the quality of this lens. I took it with a D300 on a European vacation and got great, sharp images. If I could trust that lens to my vacation I think you could too! (I work for Nikon!)
Scott
The 18-200 VR is the perfect ‘travel’ lens to bring. 1) you don’t need to change lens in dusty, damp, or crowded locations. 2) you can take decent close-ups. 3) VR is the lazy mans tripod;). Remember, F8 is the sweet spot!
I would also bring a fast prime lens, like a 35mm 1.8 or 50mm 1.8. Both are fast, light, small, and cheap. Plus, if use either one of these lens, you will become a better photographer. Gauranteed! Many of the worlds best photojournalists captured the world with those lens. Remember 35mm= 52mm, and 50mm= 75mm in DX format.
Nope. The folks at MPIX gave it to me and I dont think they make anymore. Sorry
I want to amplify what Jim said. When you mention you like to use a specific lens, please also mention the format of the camera you like to use it on. I have lots of lenses I like to use one way on FX and completely differently on DX.
Klearchos,
if you have black dots on your frames, especially when using small aperture (= high aperture values) you should clean the sensor. Dust on the lenses will cause blur and flare but almost never dots on the picture.
Check out Kelby Training. Laurie Excell has some great classes on lens cleaning. Hopefully we’ll see it on DTOWN too??
Correction. It sits dead middle on the table or third from right.
Agree. Love my old 50 mm 1:1,4 together with my D200 allthough I have to manually focus.
I have specified the lens data using Non-CPU-Lens data option in the shooting meny of the D200 so aperture is correctly displayed in the viewfinder as well as in the EXIF data of my files
Hi Iza, in regards to the 105 macro lens, bythom explains the varible aperture lens here http://www.bythom.com/105AFSlens.htm
“when are you going to take Nikon to task for this being a variable aperture lens?”
I have news for you: all of the fixed focal length Micro-Nikkors aren’t actually fixed focal length. In order to keep from being enormously long when focused at 1:1 magnification, Nikon (as well as many other macro makers) plays with the optical formula in order to keep from having an ever telescoping lens barrel. In macro work, you wouldn’t want that, anyway, as a lens barrel that telescoped significantly to get to 1:1 would reduce working distance and potentially start hitting things in your scene at close working distances. Thus, at 1:1, this lens becomes about f/4.8 and does not extend even a millimeter. The aperture loss is actually a bit less dramatic at lower magnifications and the non-extension is very much welcome for macro use.
Hey, thanks a lot for the explanation. When you have it lined like that, it makes sense.
thats REALLY great advice. Apart from the fact the suggestions are (reasonably) affordable they will work to on the lower food chain cameras, we’ve all got to start somewhere right? Thanks
Switch lenses. If the dark spot is on the same place on all pictures your sensor collected dust particles.
When switching lenses it’s a good practice to first uncap the lens you are attaching, lightly blow on the rear element (to rid of any dust particles), point the camera facing dow, remove the attached lens. With the camera still facing down attach the other lens. DO NOT blow onto the camera body. Also try to find a place with light or no wind and in a relatively dustless environment (sometimes not possible).
I have a 24-85 (and a D700) and it’s a little gem but… On a trip to the Caribbean I rented a 24- 70 f2.8 to check it out (took both lenses). The 24-85 is very good but the 24-70 is way sharper in the corners. Also, when I ran into low light situation, the f2.8 across the range became priceless (at least to me). The same for some portraits I wanted to shoot. With the f2.8 max aperture throughout the entire zoom range you have much mote flexibility (if you want the background nicely blurred).
The drawback is that the 24-70 is longer (and heavier) than the 24- 85. Me, I don’t really care because I grew up with the Nikon F2 with an 80-200-f4 and motor drive, that combo was no featherweight. The lens feels really well balanced on the 700. Also the price is higher but, then again, you get what you pay for…
Oh yes! As soon as I came back I returned the rental and purchased a 24-70 -2.8 (no questions asked).
Scott Diussa,
I agree, most of the AF focus points work with f5.6 or faster but in my almost 40 years experience shooting and selling Nikon cameras is that the Nikon lenses do autofocus faster at f2.8 than they do at f5.6, and they focus faster still with f1.4 lenses. Thom Hogan makes mention of this in his books. I believe I also read this in Nikon’s own literature a long time ago. At least on older Nikons the cross-type AF sensors wouldn’t work with lenses slower than f2.8. I’ve been shooting, and selling, Nikon gear since the old EPOI days of 1970.
Sincerely,
Robert Jensen